Between tradition and innovation: bahian moqueca in restaurants in Salvador (BA)

Abstract

Bahian moqueca is an identity marker and an expression of belonging in Bahia’s food culture. Grounded in debates on food identity and tradition as a social construct, this article analyzes continuities and transformations in the production of moqueca in three restaurants in Salvador. This qualitative study is based on four semi-structured interviews with founding chefs and owner-partners, complemented by document analysis. Data were examined through content analysis using the categories “tradition,” “adaptation,” and “innovation.” The narratives highlight moqueca as a symbol of Bahian identity and restaurants as spaces of legitimation of this know-how. Preparation methods remain framed as traditional, while incorporating minor innovations in techniques, utensils, and ingredients, driven by styles and market demands. It is argued that this know-how is reaffirmed as a socially recognized practice, situated between tradition and innovation, contributing to the consolidation of moqueca as an emblematic dish and its potential recognition as intangible cultural heritage.